Last time I was in Germany I took the train from Munich to Berlin … didn’t have time to do Nuremberg on the way. This time, driving, I *did* …
The site of the Nazi rallies was quite accessible – a tram ride from the central station which, in my case, was a direct line from my hotel on the outskirts of town. Unfortunately, as is all to common, the museum (‘Documentation Centre’) while excellent was full of video clips (not photographable, obviously) and cases full of items so cunningly lit and glassed in as to make them also unphotographable!
I had intended to do a walk around the site (it’s huge) and see some of the remaining structures – but it was raining. Nice weather for the Geese on the lake shore, not so much for any pedestrians.
The City Proper
One of the days I was there I headed off to see the Imperial Castle which overlooks the city (well, the Old city) … and walked through parts of the old historic district …
One of the reasons Nuremberg is such a nice city is that the city fathers resisted the call back in the day to pull down the city walls and towers … they’re all still there … and this is the one just off the Hauptbahnhof square (the station is actually off camera behind the tower).They also emphasised their status as a Free Imperial City by decorating everything official with all sorts of ornate heraldry indicating this status (a FIC was a direct subject of the Holy Roman Emperor, not part of one of the princely or territorial states). This is one of the ceremonial entrances to the Rathaus (Town Hall) complex off the old Market Square.The Schoner Brunnen, a 14th century fountain in the Old Market Square – there are close to 100 figures of various sizes representing biblical and religious personalities as well as the Prince Electors (the seven guys who actually elected the Holy Roman Emperor) of the time. Did I mention the city fathers were big into preserving old things?A different angle of the fountain.
The Imperial Castle
You know all about Town & Gown with differences between medieval Universities and their local towns? Well, Nuremberg had issues with Town & Emperor … the Imperial Castle overlooking the town was, from time to time, either seen as a threat to the Town’s civic rights or occupied by the town.
Of course, McGregor luck being what it is, most of the exterior was covered in hoarding and scaffolding as they rebuild and refurbish large swathes of the site … and after I’d hiked up this bloody steep hill to get there!
The views from the top, however, were pretty good …
View down over the ‘old town’ and the spires of some of the medieval churches … those steep roofed houses are mostly, as far as I can tell, medieval or renaissance … many are half-timbered … and the streets are narrow and winding for the most part. And steep … did I mention how steep the bloody hill was?Strictly speaking, out of sequence, as I took this on the way back down … but it shows the sorts of houses we’re talking about.
The tour of the interior was, of necessity, only of the interior … but it was pretty good, too
The main hall of the castle – those wooden beams are originals. Yes. They are bloody big and thick … and those are some of the annoying tourists who have plagued my every step <grin>The Castle Chapel – from the Imperial balcony. Separate entrance and above the other courtiers and hangers on who were accommodated below. Remember, this is in the period when only the Priest consumed the wine and the host, with his back turned to the congregation. The modern participatory Mass is much much later.One of the illuminated Manuscript/Books on display in the treasury … one of the few things that were lit appropriately and didn’t have glass that reflected poorly placed lighting.One of the Renaissance suits of armour (well and truly post-medieval) in the Armoury.A case for Crossbow Bolts – and a variety of different types of Bolts. You can see a cranequin in the background (a device for recocking one of the later metal ‘strung’ and metal ‘bow’ Arbalests)A model of the Castle as it was in its early years.And one of it as it was at its greatest late medieval extent. There were further Renaissance and 30 Years War era additions, some of which resulted in bits shown here being modified or to torn down … and which, in turn, have often been modified or torn down.
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